Photography Notes

Blurry Images

Blurry images may be caused when there isn’t enough light for the camera to set a fast shutter speed. The camera’s shutter opens and has to stay open for up to several seconds for enough light to hit the CCD to capture the image.

In addition, when the telephoto feature is used on an Ultra Zoom camera, the field of view becomes smaller. Since a lens with a large focal length provides a small picture area, even slight imperceptible camera movement will cause a blurred picture.

To help eliminate out of focus or blurry images, try one or more of the following when applicable:
»» If inside use the flash.
»» Change to a fast shutter speed.
»» Put the camera on a flat surface or use a tripod.
»» Brace yourself against a tree or wall.
»» Put the camera in sports mode.
»» For situations with low light, raise the ISO. (Please note this will impede image quality)

Aperture (A)

By decreasing the aperture value (F-number), the camera will focus within a smaller range, producing a picture with a blurred background. Increasing the value forces the camera to focus over a wider range in the forward and backward directions, resulting in increased "depth of field", in which both the subject and the background are in focus.

The camera sets the shutter speed automatically.

Shutter Speed (S)

Setting the shutter speed higher lets you capture fast-moving action without blur. The subject will be clear and sharp, as if it is not moving.

The camera sets the aperture automatically.

Manual (M)

Used to set the aperture and shutter speed manually. This mode gives you more creative control, allowing you to make the settings you need to get the type of picture you want, regardless of optimum exposure.

Flash

Fill-in Flash

The flash fires regardless of the available light. This mode is useful for eliminating shadows on the subject’s face (such as shadows from tree leaves), in a backlight situation, or for correcting the color shift produced by artificial lighting (especially fluorescent light).

Flash Off

The flash does not fire even in low light conditions. Use this mode in situations where flash photography is not desired or is prohibited, such as in an art museum. You can also use this mode when you want to shoot a naturallooking twilight or night scene.

Slow Synchronization

The slow synchronization flash is designed for slow shutter speeds. Normally, when shooting with a flash, shutter speeds cannot go below a certain level to prevent camera movement. But when shooting a night scene background, fast shutter speeds can make the background too dark. Slow synchronization flash allows both a slow shutter speed for the background and a flash for the subject. Since the shutter speed is slow, make sure you stabilize the camera by using a tripod. Otherwise, camera movement may cause the picture to be blurred.

1st curtain (SLOW1) -front curtain: Usually, regardless of the shutter speed, the flash fires right after the shutter fully opens. This is called 1st curtain. Unless you change it, this is how the flash always fires.

2nd curtain (SLOW2)-rear curtain: With 2nd curtain, the flash fires just before the shutter closes. Changing the flash timing can create interesting effects in your picture, such as expressing the movement of a car by showing the tail-lights streaming backwards. The slower the shutter speed, the better the effects turn out.

1st curtain (SLOW1) with red-eye reduction: This mode is for when you want to use slow synchronization, yet also reduce the red-eye phenomenon. For instance, when shooting a person against a brightly lit night background. A normal flash might make the person’s eyes red, but 1st curtain with red-eye reduction lets you capture the background correctly and reduce the red-eye phenomenon at the same time.

ISO Sensitivity

The higher the ISO value, the greater the camera’s light sensitivity and the better its ability to shoot in low light conditions. However, higher values also introduce electrical noise into the resulting image, which may give them a grainy appearance.

Exposure Compensation

Often bright subjects (such as snow) will turn out darker than their natural colors. Adjusting toward + makes these subjects closer to their real shades. For the same reason, adjust toward - when shooting dark subjects.

White Balance

Color reproduction differs depending on the light conditions. For instance, when daylight, the setting sun or tungsten lighting are reflected on white paper, the shade of white produced will be slightly different for each. By setting the WB (white balance), you can achieve more natural-looking colors.

Noise Reduction

This function reduces the noise that is generated during long exposures. When shooting night scenes, shutter speeds become slower and noise tends to appear on images. When noise reduction is set to ON, the camera automatically reduces noise to produce clearer images. However, shooting time is approximately twice as long as usual.

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Olympus C-755 Tips

The green lamp blinks: You are too close to the subject. Take the picture at least 7 cm/2.8" (wide-angle) (1.2 m/3.9 ft. (telephoto)) away from the subject. If you use the super macro mode, you can take pictures as close as 3 cm/ 1.2" from the subject. (P.85)

Recording sound with a picture: Set R to ON. Recording sound with still pictures (P.97) You can also add sound to a picture that has already been taken. Recording sound (P.130)